The winter coat

So, at the GBSB live show I bought too much fabric but some of it I just couldn’t resist. Take this wool/silk mix from Fabworks Mill with flecks of all my favourite colours. I fell in love with it as soon as I saw it but the queues at the stand were so long and the staff so stressed that I gave up after 15 mins. I had second thoughts just as we were due to leave the show and rushed back and it was still there. I took this as an omen that it was meant for me and bought 3 metres.


What to do with it ? I thought about making a coat but dismissed that as being too difficult, then, on one of those evenings looking at patterns on The FoldLine I found this Butterick 6385

The Funnel necked version is very similar to a RTW coat that I already own but which has seen better days and I thought I would give this a go with my green flecked fabric and make a replacement.

So many pattern pieces for the coat and lining although the garment looks quite simple.  Going by the pattern packet I cut size 16 with a cup size A and this turned out to be pretty much perfect fit wise with no alterations needed.

The pattern calls for the front sections only to be interfaced but due to the silk in this fabric it was really drapey so I decided to interface all the pattern pieces except the front facings (although I subsequently decided to interface a strip down the front for the button attachments)  in order to get the structure of the coat.

The whole coat is lined and I used this brocadey fabric from Minerva Crafts

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One of the early instructions relates to the sewing of the pocket flaps and here disaster stuck. My sewing machine broke, properly, and has had to be sent for repair with no timescale for its return…

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After a few mopey days OH suggested getting a back up machine so I now have a basic, heavy duty Janome to complement my more advanced Husky when it comes back. As it turns out this was a good move as the Janome is much better at getting through the thicker fabric layers.

The instructions are quite good with this pattern and I didn’t really have any difficulty with the basic construction but the devil, as always, is in the detail. I read through to the end before I started and noticed that the very last instruction was the buttons and ordinary buttonholes, but thinking about it I decided that I would like to have a go at doing bound buttonholes, which I had never attempted before, and which required quite a lot of planning as to which stage would be the best to insert them (before attaching the lining and facing) I was really pleased with the outcome , thanks to a very clear free tutorial from Craftsy (see first pic of the fabric, you can’t even see the buttonhole unless you know it’s there !) Emboldened by this unexpected success I also made an internal pocket in the facing for my phone using the same technique

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Another ‘new to me’ technique was french tacks to hold the lining in place at the hem

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After having looked at this picture I realised how awful the overlocked coat fabric edge looked so I have gone back and finished it properly with some bias tape.

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I finished the garment with the 5th iteration of possible buttons that I chose and rejected so I now have loads of spare greenish buttons, including a set of self fabric covered buttons that took me ages ! These ones which made it to the finished garment came from Ribbon Moon

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I have been out and about in my new garment and feel quite amazed that I managed to make an actual wearable coat.

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This entry was posted in beginner's luck, dressmaking, Handmade, Sewing, Winter Coat and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

3 Responses to The winter coat

  1. JaneyB says:

    This is brilliant! I’m so impressed. The fabric is lovely and the buttons are amazing! X

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  2. Kim says:

    Very nice! I still have the fabric I bought for last winters coat. Maybe this year…..

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