I first noticed The Tello jacket at the GBSB show last summer when I saw a sample on the Dragonfly fabrics stand. I bought the pattern and some blue and white japanese fabric to make the jacket the same as the sample. I’ve never made it up and my colour palette for 2018 is very different. I’ve also been sewing with jersey a lot recently and wanted to sew something with a stable woven fabric, I wanted to have another go at a hong kong seam following my failure with the V9275 jacket. The Tello requires both a stable woven fabric and hong kong seams. Time to make it up.
I bought some denim described as ‘bronze’ from Guthrie and Ghani although I was very disappointed with the colour, no way would I call it ‘bronze’ it is more charcoal grey and caramel, but hey ho.
I’ve made one Pauline Alice pattern before and as before I am really impressed with the clarity of the instructions and accompanying construction diagrams.
Th very first thing to do is to make up the zipped chest pocket. The instructions tell you to cut out the pocket lining from folded fabric so you get a pocket lining and a mirror image but I would observe that if you want the lining fabric to show right side out on the inside of the jacket you need to cut out two pocket linings the same way. Unfortunately, having discovered this, I then didn’t have sufficient fabric to cut a third pocket lining so the one I have ended up with is pieced.
The hong kong seams were much more successful although having bought the required 9m of bias binding I then found it wasn’t quite enough and so the sleeves have a different colour binding to the rest of the garment.
I really like doing top stitching and this was a perfect opportunity to practice my parallel stitching as I have never managed to get a twin needle to work.
My one slight regret is that I thought it would be a good idea to edge the buttonholes with the topstitching thread. I had a practice go with the topstitching thread on top and bottom but that was too bulky and kept getting tangled. Then I tried with the topstitching thread on the top and ordinary thread in the bobbin. That worked beautifully so off I set with the front of the jacket. I started at the bottom and achieved three lovely buttonholes but on the fourth everything went wrong. That middle buttonhole was sewn and unpicked five times (it would have to be the middle one !) before the sixth attempt was acceptable which was good job because the fabric was starting to suffer. Again the last and top two buttonholes took a couple of attempts each, the top one especially, where the reverse shows as you would never do it up is not brilliant but I don’t know how to make it better.
On the upside I LOVE my buttons which came from Backstitch I think they just soften the look of the jacket overall.
(That fabric is not bronze, no way)
Anyway, I’m quite happy with the finished jacket. It fits, and if the top buttonhole was better it would be pretty much perfect.