V8499 and my new gadget

This week I decided on a whim to sew V8499. I have been really interested in this pattern for ages but have never bitten the bullet to sew it up because it’s not the sort of thing I would normally wear. This week has been rather stressful for a variety of reasons and I needed to sew. I had a bit of fabric left over from my Tello jacket and fancied a bit more topstitching as there’s nothing like concentrating on it for making you forget whatever else is going on so I bit the bullet with V8499.

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I went for view C as that would use up all my remaining fabric. There are described as very loose fitting and my goodness yes they are although I think with the flat front they don’t look as bulky as they could. After a happy day of topstitching I had the pair of trousers finished apart from the hems. They were SO wide though and I decided to gather the bottoms into a hem.

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Having finished the trousers I have to say I absolutely LOVE them. BUT they are so far removed from what I would usually wear that I don’t know if would wear them to go about my daily business. This has led to some philosophical musings on why I sew and what I wear and why these trousers pose a difficulty for me and why I like them so much.

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I think I just need to man up and wear things that I love.

On another note, when my sewing machine broke in October and had to be sent for repair I was told off for not having it serviced regularly and to prove the point the repairers sent the machine back along with a ziplock bag containing all the stuff that they had extracted from my machine which contained various broken needle tips, the glass heads from some pins (I know, don’t judge !) and enough lint to stuff a very small cushion. Feeling abashed I have resolved to love my sewing machines more and to that end I have purchased a tiny vacuum cleaner for clearing out after each sew.

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It was not very expensive but was the most highly reviewed mini vacuum on Amazon. It charges up via USB and has a couple of nozzles, one with a brush and one narrow and rigid.

Bearing in mind that the machine was clean before I started this was the state of it after the V8499 project, and I had only used this particular machine for the topstitching.

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After a minute of vacuuming we were back to this

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and the filter on the vacuum cleaner looked like this

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The device comes with a few filters so you can wash out the debris and use them again when dry. This is definitely a more efficient way of keeping the machines free from lint than the little brushes that come with a sewing machine so I hope it will help keep the machines happy and sewing well.

 

 

 

 

Posted in #SWAP18, 2018makenine, dressmaking, Handmade, Trousers, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Tello jacket

I first noticed The Tello jacket at the GBSB show last summer when I saw a sample on the Dragonfly fabrics stand. I bought the pattern and some blue and white japanese fabric to make the jacket the same as the sample.  I’ve never made it up and my colour palette for 2018 is very different. I’ve also been sewing with jersey a lot recently and wanted to sew something with a stable woven fabric, I wanted to have another go at a hong kong seam following my failure with the V9275 jacket. The Tello requires both a stable woven fabric and hong kong seams. Time to make it up.

I bought some denim described as ‘bronze’ from Guthrie and Ghani although I was very disappointed with the colour, no way would I call it ‘bronze’ it is more charcoal grey and caramel, but hey ho.

I’ve made one Pauline Alice pattern before and as before I am really impressed with the clarity of the instructions and accompanying construction diagrams.

Th very first thing to do is to make up the zipped chest pocket. The instructions tell you to cut out the pocket lining from folded fabric so you get a pocket lining and a mirror image but I would observe that if you want the lining fabric to show right side out on the inside of the jacket you need to cut out two pocket linings the same way. Unfortunately, having discovered this, I then didn’t have sufficient fabric to cut a third pocket lining so the one I have ended up with is pieced.

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The hong kong seams were much more successful although having bought the required 9m of bias binding I then found it wasn’t quite enough and so the sleeves have a different colour binding to the rest of the garment.

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I really like doing top stitching and this was a perfect opportunity to practice my parallel stitching as I have never managed to get a twin needle to work.

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My one slight regret is that I thought it would be a good idea to edge the buttonholes with the topstitching thread. I had a practice go with the topstitching thread on top and bottom but that was too bulky and kept getting tangled. Then I tried with the topstitching thread on the top and ordinary thread in the bobbin. That worked beautifully so off I set with the front of the jacket. I started at the bottom and achieved three lovely buttonholes but on the fourth everything went wrong. That middle buttonhole was sewn and unpicked five times (it would have to be the middle one !) before the sixth attempt was acceptable which was good job because the fabric was starting to suffer. Again the last and top two buttonholes took a couple of attempts each, the top one especially, where the reverse shows as you would never do it up is not brilliant but I don’t know how to make it better.

On the upside I LOVE my buttons which came from Backstitch I think they just soften the look of the jacket overall.

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(That fabric is not bronze, no way)

Anyway, I’m quite happy with the finished jacket. It fits, and if the top buttonhole was better it would be pretty much perfect.

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Posted in #SWAP18, 2018makenine, dressmaking, Handmade, Jacket, Sewing, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , , | 2 Comments

V9275 – A comedy of errors

I had never heard of this pattern until I saw it on The Fold Line’s blog and I really like Kate’s finished garment. A long line bomber jacket, how perfect ! Then I saw Karen’s version and that clinched it. A must have.

I had been thinking about it for a couple of weeks when I came across this fabric from My Fabrics.co.uk

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It’s sweatshirt fabric with a bright geometric print on the outside and a long pile fleece interior. My idea was to make the jacket but to simplify it by not lining it and having the fleece side as the interior.  As it turns out this was a very BAD idea.

The fabric when it arrived was lovely, a bit thicker than I had anticipated but not a problem to use in an unlined garment. I cut out the pattern pieces a size smaller than normal as I had read from both Karen and Kate that the garment came up very large, and I also took 2.5cm off each shoulder. I attempted to match the pattern but it didn’t fit exactly across the pattern pieces ( I did my best), I also made facings for the fronts and back neck in lieu of the lining.

I made the pockets using two layers of the main fabric rather than one layer of fabric and one of lining, using the fleece sides inside the pockets for warmth

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and attached them as instructed to the side seams. Due to the two layers of thick fabric the pockets then dragged downwards pulling the sides a bit out of shape. In order to resolve this I sewed the pockets carefully to the front piece to hold them up which worked well. It was the apparent that I would need to finish the edges of the fabric somehow as it was shedding fleece everywhere. My overlocker took violent exception to the fabric and jammed and shredded and made a horrible mess so I gave up with that and had the bright idea of doing Hong Kong seams…well that ended up looking like this…

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absolutely awful, lumpy, bumpy and wiggly. I left the garment alone for a few days  and eventually realised that I could never live with a garment with such a horrible interior. I decided to line it after all. I’d sewn quite a lot of bias tape on by this time and my initial thought was to sacrifice my lovely fleecy interior on the altar of my own incompetence and line over the top of it, no one would ever know.

I ordered some chocolate brown stretch lining from Minerva crafts and stupidly didn’t check it when it arrived, when I unpacked it this is what I had purchased, a diaphanous lining that wouldn’t hide even a microscopic bit of orange bias tape.

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So, there was nothing for it but to remove all the tape I had applied up to that point. It took AGES.

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I then cut out the lining pieces and set about sewing in the shoulder darts, but no…my machine was having none of it. After a fruitless hour of trying different tensions, changing needles (stretch, ballpoint, fine, universal), stitch lengths, varying the presser foot pressure, nothing, not a stitch would stick.

By now I was beginning to have a sense of humour failure but every time I looked at the fabric I would love the pattern on it a little bit more and I hate admitting defeat.

I am making this jacket as part of #SWAP18 and I had also purchased a lot of oatmeal jersey for the same project which I decided to use as an alternative to the slippery brown stuff for a lining. This worked a lot better and I was even able to use my original facings.

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it was incredibly difficult to sew bits of this as the two layers of fleece plus two layers of jersey were so thick that even my supposedly ‘heavy duty’ machine had trouble sewing the hem but I got it done in the end. I had finished. As I triumphantly tried on my garment I realised that I had twisted the left arm lining and sewn it in 360 degrees from where it should have been, aargh !. More unpicking but finally…finally…Success ! With the sweatshirting, the fleece and the jersey lining this is a very warm and snuggly garment. If it hadn’t been for the successive disasters with the interior this would have been quite a straightforward make but overall I’m pleased I persevered and I still love the pattern on this fabric.

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Posted in dressmaking, Handmade, Jacket, Sewing, Uncategorized, Winter Coat | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Swoon patterns India boho bag

I have a box where I keep leftover fabric pieces which are smaller than 1m length but too big to throw away and it’s full. The patchwork bedcover I made earlier in the year gave me a temporary respite but the scraps are fighting back ! I need to find something to do with them so as a test I decided to have a go at the Swoon patterns India Boho bag. The pattern comes in two sizes, large and small and I decided to make the small one with a corduroy outer lined with linen. It’s a straightforward make with the only complication being two pocket zips. I used two 5in zips instead of the 7in ones specified, only because I had lots left from an eBay purchase a while ago.

This is the bag I had intended to make but actually I prefer the reverse side

So this is the way round I’m using it. I didn’t expect the bag to be fully reversible but it is. I’ll do this one again..

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Designin’ December Part 2…The Dress

Well at the end of Designin’ December Part 1. The pattern….I noted that I had not sewn with velvet before and now that I have I won’t be rushing to do it again in a hurry…

To recap, I decided to take part in Linda Maki’s Designin’ December, the point of which is to ‘copy’ a designer garment that you like but wouldn’t actually buy for whatever reason. In my case the price tag of this dress at £500 is the line in the sand that I cannot cross..

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I purchased 4 metres of woven viscose velvet in a colour called Bordeaux from Stof and Stil and after much research I also ordered 100 silky tassels from a Chinese website on eBay as ordering them in the UK would have meant that just the cost of the tassels would have been over £100 as against Chinese price of under £20.

The fabric arrived pretty quickly and once I had got the pattern sorted out (see previous post) I was able to cut out the dress body from M6959 and my self drafted raglan sleeve amendment. I also lengthened the skirt and flared it out slightly at the bottom.

I had read quite a lot about sewing with velvet before I started and used my walking foot together with lots of pins in the seam allowances but the fabric STILL slipped all over the place, how is that even possible ? I also hated not being able to press the seams. I hadn’t realised quite how much I use the iron for pressing my projects. Steaming and finger pressing the seams just doesn’t cut it for me.

I also took advice from The Closet Case on wrap dress construction and added 2 poppers on the wrap section of the top for modesty. I also lined the skirt to give it some weight although with the tassels on the hem this probably wasn’t necessary.

After a month the tassels hadn’t turned up so I researched an alternative trim which was a feathery lace and was resigned to using that when LO ! A  small parcel arrived from China, surely it didn’t contain the 100 tassels I had ordered ? but actually yes, they were all present and correct. Each tassel is enclosed in its own little tube and expands massively once released. They are nice and silky and actually exceeded expectations.

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I then started attaching them to the dress, it quickly became apparent that I couldn’t get them to lie in the orientation of my inspiration picture as they have a natural inclination to hang downwards which I guess is gravity doing its work. I decided not to try and defy gravity and instead attach them the way they wanted to hang.

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I din’t quite need all 100 that I had estimated but only used 63, each attached with a french tack stitch to keep them mobile.

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So this is the finished garment. I think it’s not far off the designer original I set out to copy. However with me not being 5’9″ and tiny size the worn effect on me is rather more Oscar Wilde Dowager but that’s fine. I shall sit in the corner at the works party tsking at the antics of the younger generation occasionally saying….A HA..NDBAG ?!?! What larks !

I’ve really enjoyed the challenge, researching patterns, selecting the fabric, sourcing the tassels, adapting the sleeve pattern, but will probably avoid sewing with viscose velvet for….forever !!

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Christmas Jumpers

This week I have been forging ahead with my Christmas gifts and making jumpers for Christmas gifts.

The first one is a Schnittchen patterns Catrin which I have made twice before and with which I have really struggled to get the loose fit shown on the pattern sleeve. However forewarned is forearmed and this time I made the hem band REALLY big and hoorah ! I have now got it looking just like the pattern picture. If anyone else wants to give this a go you need to make the hem band pattern piece at least 8cm longer than whatever size you are making. I am making a size 36 and had to make a band longer than that for a size 44.

Anyway as it is supposed to be a Christmas surprise here it is on my dress form

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The cute doggie fabric is from Stoff and Stil

The second one I’ve made is a Bethouia from Elle Puls this is a pattern I’ve used 5 times before so I am really familiar with it and it takes less than an hour to make. This one is in gorgeously vibrant mustard wool boucle from Stone Fabrics unfortunately the picture doesn’t really do this fabric justice as its much brighter in real life

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and then, as I had the pattern out I made myself a Bethiouia too. This time I altered the neck to make it warmer

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The fabric is a toasty quilted sweatshirting also from Stone Fabrics and I have been wearing this one a LOT. That’s 7 Bethiouias so far and I have one more to make for my boss…better be extra careful with that one…

 

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Designin’ December Part 1. The pattern….

Designin’ December…sounded like such fun when I saw it on Linda of Nice Dress Thanks I made it site. Find a designer garment that you like but wouldn’t buy and COPY IT !!

Well I quite quickly found a dress on Matches Fashion that I really liked, the Jagger tassel trimmed dress

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What I particularly liked about this dress was the raglan sleeves, the wrap front, the velvet, the tassels and the general bathrobe glamour, but at £500, way out of my league.

So, how to set about it. The style looks quite straightforward so I thought it would be easy to find a pattern to use to make my copy. Well, no….There are lots of patterns out there with one or more elements but none with all of them. I even made a spreadsheet…IMG_8604

But nothing ticked all the boxes. In the end I decided to use two patterns, McCall’s 6959 for the fact that it is a true wrap dress and it’s fitted into the waist

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..and V8825 for the raglan and balloon sleeves

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I was pretty pleased with myself and this pattern combination until I came to cut out the Vogue pattern. The sleeve is actually a two part sleeve with the front being raglan and the back being a wide kimono. I really don’t think this would work with my velvet as the nap on the back sleeve would be running in two different directions and additionally I do not want a seam running the length of the sleeve. Very disappointing. I should have examined the back of the pattern envelope a bit more carefully but even then I’m not sure I would have spotted these specific problems.

Back to the drawing board quite literally. Taking the straight sleeve from the McCall’s  pattern as a block and Winifred Aldrich’s metric pattern cutting book for direction I made a single piece raglan sleeve adaptation.

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So now I had a narrow raglan sleeve. Again using the same book I followed the instructions for widening the sleeve and came up with this..

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..which I made a pattern piece from and then made toile of the bodice. Unfortunately this method of spreading the sleeve resulted in there being too much fabric at the shoulder making me look like Superman. I have reverted to the original narrow raglan sleeve but just widened it by 8cm either side of the bottom of the sleeve and drawing a straight line from there to the armpit which has resulted in a silhouette much nearer to that of the original Jagger dress.

So I am now ready to cut out my velvet. I haven’t sewn with velvet before so I have been watching lots of tutorials and gleaning tips where I can. My tassels are still in transit from China. 1 month and counting so I may have to go with a plan B on those.

Wish me luck !

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